Curacao: Day 7

Well the inevitable last day in this Dutch Caribbean paradise finally arrived. We had an action packed morning followed by a relaxing afternoon and romantic evening to tie the bow on our week long holiday. We made it up toward Westpunt bright and early in the morning to get in our last dive, for real this time. We arrived to the dive shop a little before they opened so we took our time getting ready and admired Playa Kalki’s slice of paradise. Jared, whom we met the night before, kindly pointed us in the direction of the seahorse and quickly briefed us on Alice in Wonderland. As we descended we immediately spotted the small black seahorse, YAY! We had to have been there for at least 10 minutes just taking photos of him before moving on to the reef. Noobies.

 It’s very difficult to say what our favorite dive or site was. There were different things about each one that made it rock in a different way. That said Alice in Wonderland was definitely one of our top picks, and not because of the obvious excitement of seeing our first seahorse. The dive itself was so peaceful, a truly serene experience. We took our time and did a real “Kyle Style” lazy dive. The structure of the reef and vast amount of life that inhabited in and all around it was incredibly enthralling. I was lost in wonderment the entire dive. We weren’t looking into crevices or trying to find anything in particular. Instead we gently coasted along, captivated by the living breathing panorama that wrapped around us. We had intended to record a video of the dive but were so lost in a Zen moment that we both completely forgot. Pretty sure I even got a little Namaste nod from a Spotted Trunkfish at one point.

After our meditative dive we packed up our gear for the last time and went into town to do a little shopping. We almost made it through the entire week without stepping foot into a souvenir shop. However there was a small list of goodies I wanted to bring home to Cali so we finally gave in. We briefly toured the floating market (a collection of boats from Venezuela that line the harbor selling produce) and old market (similar to the Oahu stadium flee market). Neither of them were particularly impressive but we had to see them at least once. We then dipped into a few side streets on a scavenger hunt for keepsakes. It was starting to heat up and we were both longing to lie out at the beach so we quickly grabbed what we were looking for and booked it out of there. We didn’t make it over to the Otrobanada side, but will no doubt be returning to Curacao soon and will have to do it next time.  

Since it was our last day we decided to have a final “fat kid” lunch. We wanted to get Dutch pancakes but the bakery was all out. So we settled for a cherry and cream filled dessert pastry dusted with powdered sugar instead. Dessert for lunch: because we’re adults on vacation and no one can tell us not to.

We returned our rental car and spent the rest of the afternoon laying ocean side at the hotel. We packed a little cooler with soda, rum, gouda, and crackers and had a nice self-made cocktail hour (or a few hours) on the beach. When the sun began to hang a little lower we walked up to our look out spot perched above the resort. We sat there gazing west and continued our happy hour until the Curacao sun gradually set on our last day. We capped off the night with dinner on the terrace of Gouverneur de Rouville Restaurant & Café. It’s a gorgeous building that is rich in history and sits facing the story book buildings on the other side of the harbor. Dinner was phenomenal, partially due to the remarkable view and overall atmosphere. After dinner we went for a leisurely stroll along the floating Queen Emma Bridge. We could not have asked for a sweeter ending to our peaceful island getaway.  

We look back now and find it amusing that we embarked on this journey only wanting to dive 2-3 days with above land adventures in mind for the remaining time. Once we descended into the aquamarine waters and feasted our eyes on Curacao’s captivating underwater world for the first time that all changed. We wound up diving every day and still wish we had done more. A running list of future must-do dives has already begun to form and will continue to grow until our next voyage. We know without a doubt this will not be our last visit to Curacao and are anxiously awaiting the time when we can return to this richly blessed island.

This experience has definitely changed us in more ways than one.  We did some world class diving that sparked an insatiable scuba appetite, met several remarkable people that enhanced our perspective on life, and became even closer as we experienced it all together. We detached from the world of continuous internet access and television and connected to the Earth and each other. We relished in the conversations that sometimes lasted for hours, uninterrupted by a text message or phone call. When we return home we will strive to carry some of these elements over into our daily lives in an effort to live a simpler, more organic life.


Dock leading to Alice in Wonderland



                                            


 @ "The Goveneur"



Curacao: Day 6

What a day!! We both agree that today was the best diving, simply because of all the creatures we saw in one single spot. Today was our last day of diving since we fly out Sunday and want to give ourselves 24hours of surface time before boarding. To send our trip off with a bang, we had hoped to dive Watamula or the East Point but were unsuccessful in finding a boat going to either today. Instead, plan B was put into motion and we dove at Playa Lagun with the intention of diving “Alice in Wonderland” at Playa Kalki afterward. When we first starting planning our trip to Curacao we looked into staying at the condos that rest on the cliff above Playa Lagun, and given that we have driven toward the west end every day this week it will likely be where we stay next time. It’s a sweet little beach, fantastic dive site that hosts one of the friendliest dive shops we have encountered (especially Jalla), and is conveniently located about 15 minutes to both the far end of Westpunt and the city center of Willemstad.

We set out on our dive in hopes of swimming with a sea turtle, which other divers and snorkelers have reported seeing frequently at Playa Lagun. There was also a seahorse spotted chilling out near an anchor just outside the “Lagun” yesterday that we were determined to find. With our turtle and seahorse senses heightened, we headed straight out and followed the lively reef to the left. Within minutes we saw a clan of Lion Fish hiding in the crevices of large Mountainous Star Coral. Lion Fish are not indigenous to Curacao and there are signs up at every beach instructing divers to: A) stay away and don’t touch them B) report any sightings. They are a major threat to the local fish and multiply so abundantly that they negatively impact the local fishing industry. Oh and let’s not forget the poisonous spines that line their striped little bodies… definitely not a fish you want to meet in a dark alley late at night. Unfortunately sightings of Lion Fish are far more common than they used to be, but this was our first encounter and somewhat thrilling just to see the notorious beast first hand. Almost immediately after our brush with the underwater mob we were greeted by none other than our much sought after friend, a Green Sea Turtle! He was fairly small, I would guess 2-3 feet long. He was kind enough to stay around our planned dive depth (cute and thoughtful, what a guy) so we followed him around for a while like a couple of aquatic paparazzi.

We made our way back toward the beach a little earlier than we normally would have in order to leave enough time to find the anchor and seahorse that adorned it. Despite our best efforts we never did find him, we never even found the anchor that was supposed to house him. Turning right heading back into the beach was dense with hundreds of fish from the sand to the surface; this was one of my favorite photos spots on the dive. We took our time rounding the corner, stopping just to watch in wonder as we were surrounded by a plethora of brightly painted tropical fish. Many swam just an inch from our face, looking us square in eye as if we were really the ones on display.

My macro eyed dive buddy Marcus found the tiniest baby Trunkfish (as far as we have determined via photo review) hiding in some coral on our swim back in. It was just icing on the cake after a gorgeous, fulfilling dive. As we rinsed off up at the shop, all amped about what a great dive we just had, a family of four came in right after us celebrating the seahorse they just saw. Aww man, really?? I guess he had moved to a small piece of pipe inside the lagoon and was no longer at the anchor (glad we didn’t spend too much time looking for that thing after all!). They just got lucky and the wife happened to see to him as they were coming back in. They pointed out where he was on the map drawn at the shop, and we decided to go out again in search of him. This would be our last dive of the trip and we decided what better way to end a week of diving than with our first seahorse encounter.  After our lovely lunch by the beach we suited up and headed out again. This time our plan was to search for the seahorse first, and then move on to explore the caves just outside the lagoon to the left. We never did find him, but did see a large Baloonfish hanging out super stealth-like between the wall and the reef. We swam over to him but I kept my distance in naïve fear that he might puff up and charge me… ridiculous, I know. I kept thinking of Brother Bloat from Finding Nemo, we never did see this big guy puff up though. Marcus joked that maybe we should have started talking to him about what tool the dentist was using, “No, it’s a K-FLEX!! *PUFF*” Couple of Disney dorks…

Oh well, so we didn’t meet a seahorse but we still had two immensely fun dives that ended the diving portion of our trip on a high note. No complaints! We grabbed a couple cold Polars and sat down by the sea shore until it was time for dinner.  Tonight we ate at the highly acclaimed Sol Food in Westpunt. It was our one “Must Do” restaurant that I had read about while trip planning and I had been looking forward to it all week. Sunshine and David, a couple originally from Boston, open their gorgeous home every Friday, Saturday, and Sunday for casual “mom’s kitchen” style dining. There are about 8-10 tables set up on their spacious back deck over-looking the Caribbean Sea where they invite the island to share in their piece of paradise. We didn’t have a reservation but no worries, Sunshine had a solution for that. She had a long family style table set up with 8 chairs that she aptly called the "No Reservation" table. It was specifically designed for hungry unreserved souls like ours, and turned out to be a really great experience. After emailing with Sunshine throughout the week and finally meeting her in person, I can see why her business is so successful. There is something so intoxicating about the warmth and good vibes dished out by Sunshine. What a neat person.

Not only did this place have an enchanting ambiance, but the food was equally soul-soothing. When we sat down Sunshine laid down a plate of home-made date and nut bread, talk about first impressions. We ordered the vegetable wood fired pizza and the whimsy of the day: spinach and cheese pancakes and potato, onion, cabbage pancakes that she called “Bubbles and Squeaks.” As we enjoyed our home cooked meal we were joined by another unreserved hungry diver, Jared, who we ended up staying and chatting with for the rest of the evening. He was a super nice guy from Oregon and had just moved to the island the day before. When we told him about our seahorse search he informed us that the Alice in Wonderland, where we had originally planned on doing our 2^nd dive that day, currently hosts a little black seahorse right in front of the dock.  He was starting his first day at Ocean Encounters West in the morning, the dive shop at Alice in Wonderland, and offered to take us out to see it. Seahorse aside, Alice in Wonderland was a dive that I had really looked forward to and was bummed we hadn’t fit it in. Needless to say it took no convincing on my part, and with a little time Marcus hopped on board too. With that we made a plan to meet him at the shop at 730 and bid adieu to Sunshine and her gem of a home.
 

Playa Lagun

"Crush"

Sol Food @ Westpunt

Curacao: Day 5

I can’t believe day five is already in the books. Time is flying by WAY TOO FAST. Picking a dive site has become difficult because I know we only have a couple days left to dive and I want to fit all of them in. We just have to have the mind-set that we will be coming back soon, otherwise it’s too busy trying to do and dive everything on our list. Today we chose to go back to Porto Marie to dive. Yesterday we just snorkeled there, and it has been recommended to us by several different people on the island for its uber healthy double reefs.

On our way to Porto Marie we stopped off at Landhuis Daniel for some Dutch pancakes. These were much more like crepes than the ones we had from the supermarket, very delish. I went sweet and had the rum and pineapple (YUM) while Marcus went savory with the ham, pineapple, and Gouda. A little syrup and powdered sugar to top off my mid-morning snack (we already had breakfast on the beach) and I was all hopped up on sugar and ready to dive!  The flamingo sanctuary is on the way to Porto Marie and what would you know, there were actually flamingos there today! There were only 4 but we were still happy to them and snap some photos.

As anticipated the dive at Porto Marie was stunning. We explored the wall of the reef on the right and came back along the top of it. As soon as we descended we spotted a sea snake (he’s not on my Reef Creatures of Curacao card, not sure what his official name is) slithering away to some nearby coral for cover. There was also several trumpetfish just hanging out right where we descended. At other sites we have been lucky to see one or two, I guess we found where all the trumpetfish like to party. Later in the dive we also saw a couple gorgeous rainbow colored Queen Angelfish. We may have seen Queen Angelfish before, I can’t remember, but these two were quite large and a treat to admire so close up.

After our real life aquarium experience we went back to the dive shop to rinse off and we met some nice people originally from Colorado. The man had a fu manchu stash like Marcus, so we knew off the bat he had to be pretty cool. He was there was his two sons and as we got talking we learned that he had retired from the Colorado Springs Fire Department a couple years ago and just decided to move to Curacao to enjoy his retirement. He now does a little work for the Fire Dept. here at the airport and was just getting his sons certified (must have been a DM). I love meeting other divers and hearing their stories, such a nice (and usually very interesting) group of people.

We did our surface interval over to the far right of the beach away from the bar where it’s a little more secluded and relaxing. As we ate our lunch we dusted off our dive tables and calculated our next dive the old fashioned way (something we SHOULD do before every dive… lazy computer-reliant divers). After about 1 ½ hour surface interval we got all loaded up and back in the water only to realize Marcus’ tank was leaking at the regulator seal. We went back to shore, adjusted it a few times but it still leaked (we think it was the O-ring).  Rather than switch out the tank we decided to just cancel the second dive and have a beer at the beach bar.  The fact that this was the bar with that delicious Belgian Triple may have been a contributing factor. That means we had another “one dive day” but we enjoyed every minute of it.

We kicked up our feet and enjoyed our beer and pommes frites while watching a little wedding that was taking place on the beach in front of the restaurant. It was an absolutely gorgeous back drop for a wedding; I can’t imagine what those wedding photos look like.

After relaxing and reminiscing our dive for a bit we drove back into town, stopping on the Otrabanda side of the harbor to capture some sunset photos of the enchanting waterfront Dutch architecture. We climbed the steps of Rif Fort, which overlooks the vibrant Punda side of the harbor and just took in the view. The Rif Fort area of Otrobanda is very upscale and lot like Santana Row back home. I wasn’t impressed but it was worth walking around and seeing for a few minutes. Most of the shops were closed by the time we arrived but I didn’t feel like we missed anything.

We had dinner at the Blues Bar where a live jazz band was playing. The restaurant sits up over the beach and we were given a nice romantic “window seat” (there actually are no windows; every restaurant seems to be open air). We stayed there the rest of the evening just enjoying the sultry music, creole style food, and conversation.

Curacao: Day 4

Today we found the perfect mixture of diving and beach bumming. We started the day a little earlier so we had plenty of time to fit in everything we wanted to do… which ironically was mostly to sit on the beach and do nothing. We had our little Euro breakfast on our balcony again before venturing over to Playa Cas Abou. On our way we stopped by the “Flamingo Sanctuary” in which there was not one single flamingo, go figure. Oh well, we snapped a few sad photos in front of the empty sanctuary and continued on to Cas Abou. Cas Abou is known for its post card quality white sandy beach, bright turquoise & royal blue marbled water, and (of course) diving. The white sandy shore is lined with palapas and lounge chairs and there is an open air bar that sits tucked farther back on the beach. There is a little friendly dive shop that sits conveniently over toward the right, patiently waiting for you to pick up tanks and dive in. We wasted no time getting in the water. As we snorkeled out to the underwater marker we saw a White Spotted Eagle Ray chowing down on breakfast. I stayed my distance (big sissy) but caught some cool photos from the surface. Once we descended at the marker we headed right per recommendation of the shop’s dive master. It was another easy going, gorgeous dive. I’m convinced there is not a single “bad dive” on the entire island. The reef is so healthy and just FULL of life. Every once in a while I would take my nose out of the reef and look up to see Marcus just SURROUNDED by vast schools of fish, all varying species. It was something I tried to catch with the camera several times but I don’t think any of the photos come close to capturing that moment. It’s a photo that I will hold in my mind forever.

Some of the highlights, other than the Eagle Ray: a few different trumpetfish, an arrow crab tucked away trying his hardest to not be seen, and some very large yellow tail snapper which had me craving fish and chips at the end of the dive. Right before we turned around to head back to the marker we reached Cas Abou’s own “mini mushroom forest,” another highlight of the dive. Our dive lasted 39 minutes and we stayed around 40 feet most of the time, once again our dive computer gave us a 16 hour desat time. We have talked to several people, including another person with a similar uwatec, and no one can explain it. I have since downloaded the manual but still don’t fully understand. Fortunately, we are more than content being 1 dive a day divers and spending the rest of the day on the beach.

 After our dive we sat under a palapa looking out on the calm water and enjoyed lunch. In addition to drinks the beach bar sold some Dutch snacks, which we didn’t dare deny. We ordered some fries with peanut sauce and enjoyed them with a couple Amstels. That moment pretty much sums up the whole reason we fell in love with Curacao when we first read about in a dive magazine a few years ago: Dutch food and culture in the middle of the Caribbean… a match made in paradise. After lunch we snorkeled around and saw a small yellow eel not too far from shore. Snorkeling was a lot of fun, and I was amazed at how much sea life there is just off the shore, but it really does not compare to diving!

We soaked up some rays as Cas Abou a while longer and then drove to near-by Porto Marie. Porto Marie is another great diving site known to house nurse sharks, spotted eagle rays, and sometimes even turtles in the valley between its two reefs. It is also just a stunning beach, so we stayed and enjoyed it for a while. We sat out on two beach front Adirondack chairs and ordered a drink. Marcus had their beer of the month, Maredsous, a blond Belgian beer. Again, two of our favorite things all found in one place: Belgian beer and a gorgeous Caribbean beach… we LOVE this place! I ordered a Pina Colada with Blue Curacao, which was good but his Belgian Beer was so much better. We snorkeled here as well and saw a very well-disguised scorpion fish that another beach goer had found by almost stepping on.

As the sun began to sink lower we drove back in the direction of our hotel, stopping at the Marriot to watch the sunset from the beach there. After sunset we cleaned up and took a taxi to the Punda side of Willemstaad for dinner at Scampi’s. We have been here 4 days and this was our first time to center of town. We’ve been enjoying the underside and beaches of the island so much we had not even ventured to the historic city center yet. Dinner was good; I had a seafood sampler of smoked salmon, coconut prawns, and calamari while Marcus had a steak. It was nice but I still prefer off the map places like that tiny beach front restaurant Surf & Turf we went to on Monday. After dinner we briefly walked around admiring the brightly colored illuminated buildings that line the harbor. It reminded me of that “Disneyland” feeling we had in a lot Europe where the buildings look too cute to be real. I’m anxious to go back during the day and enjoy more of the sites and shops of the adorable downtown Willemstaad.

Curacao: Day 3

We started our day off with a homemade Euro style breakfast on the beach. We had pineapple jam and oude kaas on dried fruit wheat rolls that we bought on our shopping excursion. The jam and cheese on bread/toast for breakfast is something that was new to me when I went to Europe for the first time and I make it at home all the time now (Marcus loves it). I also cooked Marcus an egg and we took our little breakfast down to the beach. It was a very sunny, beautiful morning. After breakfast we packed a lunch for the day and headed towards Playa Lagun in hopes of diving the Mushroom Forrest. The dive shop at Playa Lagun usually has a dive boat that will take you out to the famous Mushroom Forrest, but not this week. The gentleman at the dive shop recommended we see “Captain Goodlife” (Juney) at Playa Santa Cruz just up the road instead and then maybe come back and dive Playa Lagun afterward. Not only had I read about Capt. Goodlife, but the Dive Master at Marie Pampoen had also recommended him (his exact words were actually more like “He’s a crazy M*F*”). He has a water taxi that just drops you off at one end of the reef, and picks you up 45 minutes later at the other end near the “Blue Room.” Captain Goodlife was busy I suppose- we briefly met him but he didn’t actually take us out, he had one of the boys that works with him do the deed.  It was a short 2 minute boat ride when we arrived at the reef, fell back off the boat into the bright blue water, and started our dive. “OH MY GOSH” is all I kept mumbling out of my reg as we got into the thick of the reef. I knew no one could hear me, but it was a natural response. The dive was absolutely incredible. I thought it was a much better dive than the day before, but Marcus like them both equally. It was just a nice, lazy dive FULL of vibrant colored sea life and coral. In any direction you looked there was a school of fish in your face or a vibrant piece of coral with its own little eco system growing in and around it just begging to be examined more closely. It was a battle going back and forth from enjoying the amazing panoramic view of the mushroom shaped coral to getting in a little closer and enjoying the dive from a macro view. Surprise, surprise… we got so caught up in taking photos we never quite made it to the blue room. Not even close actually. When we were done with the dive we popped up and saw the boat waiting at least 100 yards away where were supposed to have made it by that point. They spotted us and picked us up, laughing the whole way over to us I’m sure. Oh well, we didn’t get to see the Blue Room but had an AMAZING dive none the less.

After our dive we went back over to Playa Lagun where we enjoyed our lunch on the beach and logged our dive. Both of our computers said we had a desat time of 16hours which was impossible (our max depth was 44 ft. and our dive lasted 45 minutes), but still being fairly new divers it worried us. We talked to the gentleman at the dive shop and all of us chalked it up to the fact that I had shared my air with Marcus towards the end of the dive (I still had over half a tank left). By the time we finished our lunch and hung out at the beach for a bit the dive shop at Playa Lagun was shutting down and we were feeling pretty lazy. We decided to make it another “one dive day” and headed over to Jaanchies for dinner. Jaanchies was recommended by Sunshine (restaurant & apartment owner on Westpunt) for local cuisine. It was as visually entertaining as it was delicious. The man who owns it is obviously a bird lover and the entire restaurant is surrounded by bird feeders tucked into local flora. The birds flutter from limb to limb as they sing and gobble up the food from their various feeders. When we arrived the owner was walking around with a bag a sugar, putting a little into each bird feeder to keep them coming back for more. The way it’s set up is tasteful, and the birds don’t actually come into the restaurant and disturb your meal. They are just there to serenade you and were even kind enough to pose for a couple of photos. We each had the seafood combo and Marcus tried the Iguana stew. The combo was shrimp, grouper, and Caribbean rice… put a little of the garlic tartar on the grouper and it was to die for. Marcus said the Iguana stew was good, but didn’t finish it. He said it was kind of like buffalo wings, “definitely not as good though.” I give him kudos for trying it. I was tempted but decided Iguana didn’t quite fit my pescatarian diet, however I have seen alligator on a couple menus and that may qualify for a tasting. Still haven’t found a place serving barracuda, I’m dying to try it.

After dinner the owner invited us to sit in some nearby rocking chairs and told us he had a surprise coming. We obliged and took a seat in the big comfy rockers. He then brought out a two neopalatin ice cream sandwich desserts which we enjoyed as we rocked back and forth and watched the birds. After our delightful dinner we raced the sun over to Playa Kaliki to watch it set. It was a rocky, more secluded beach over to the right and had a dive shop over to the left. We only stayed long enough to watch the sunset and then drove along the north side of the island back to the hotel. Back at the hotel we made a couple rum libations that we took down to the beach. The beach was technically closed but we went for a swim anyway, no one bothered us or seemed to care. We stayed out there just swimming and chatting the rest of the evening. The area of the beach we were on was near the Blues Bar, which we plan on checking out either Thursday or Saturday when they have a live band. On our way back to the room we stopped by just to look at their menu and it just so happens Tuesday is burger night. We were a couple drinks in at this point and getting a little hungry so Marcus got his burger fix and ordered a Texas Burger to go.  I made my own late night snack back at the room (nutella on parisettes) and we sat out on the balcony to enjoy them both. We definitely let our inner fat kids out, hopefully this won’t be a nightly tradition!

Curacao: Day 2

We started off our first full day in Curacao with a hot cup of coffee on our balcony, just relaxing and taking it all in. After our little morning java we drove to Centrum market to do a little grocery shopping for the week. This is something I look forward to everywhere we go and was one of the highlights of my day. I LOVE going to grocery stores in other countries, and this little place didn’t disappoint. As to be expected it mimicked Alberthein grocery store in Holland. We loaded up on Oude Kaas (“Old Cheese:” crumbly, stinky gouda- a favorite to both of us) several other types of Gouda, and some produce. The “sweet” aisle was probably where we spent most of our time- I love all the Belgian and Dutch treats! We finally narrowed it down to some speculaas (spiced cookies, great with coffee) and parisettes (mini cookie-like Belgian waffles). We then made our way to the grown up aisle where there was array of different flavored Curacao liquors to choose from. Blue Curacao is what we were most familiar with, but here they had rows and rows of different flavored “Curacao liquors.” There was so much to choose from; we eventually picked up some Curacao Rum & Curacao Coconut Liquor. I think we just might have to go back and pick up a few more of the flavors before we leave though!

For breakfast we went over to the bakery where we bought Arepa Pompoena (Dutch pancake), a couple croissants, and a Kroket. The Arepa Pompoena was amazing, similar to a crepe but a little thicker with raisins scattered throughout.  Marcus was not a fan of the meat and potato deep fried Kroket (I didn’t try it). After our shopping excursion we stocked up our fridge and mini kitchen and then sat out on the balcony with a map and made a dive plan for the day. We chose “Tugboat” based on recommendations from family as well as dive magazines, plus it’s not too far from where we are staying and it was already nearing noon.  Well that plan was a bust… apparently Tugboat is and will be closed for quite some time. There was a language barrier between the security guard at the gate and myself so I’m not exactly sure why it’s closed, something a about a large boat I think (Cruise Ship?). We later talked to a few other people including a dive master working at a local dive shop who didn’t even realize it was closed. We drove around to Kabaye, a nearby dive site but decided to go back to Marie Pampoen which had been recommended to us by the dive master at Atlantis Dive Shop.

There are two dives at Marie Pampoen: a deep dive (around 90 feet) of sunken cars in which sea life have made a home, and an easy going 45ish foot plateau reef dive. This was our first dive in Curacao, first shore dive by ourselves (no boat to come pick us up where ever we pop up like we had in Cozumel) and no dive master to navigate us back. Needless to say we chose the easier of the two dives and may have to come back to see the underwater car yard another time.

The dive was wonderful. We saw our old friend the Rainbow Parrotfish, various other species of Parrotfish, Yellow Tail Snapper, various Angelfish and Groupers, a couple of the slightly more elusive long Trumpetfish and the big exciting sighting of the day... a Spotted Moray Eel. I don’t think the moray eel is that rare, but they can be hard to spot simply because they hide out in little caves of the coral. Marcus spotted him (he always finds the good stuff, good dive buddy) and pointed him out to me just as I was about to swim right passed him. We had fun with our new camera and mom’s underwater housing, it’s a lot different than the little disposable underwater cameras we are used to using. We can’t wait to get home and go through all of our photos and hopefully even make some “wall art” out of them.

Neither of us bothered to look at the compass on our way out (oooooops) but managed to “navigate” back perfectly by pointing in the direction we thought we came from and just making sure our dive computer showed that we were slowly ascending. We were very lucky, and definitely won’t make that mistake again! As we came up the sun was beginning to set, which made for some cool photos from the water. The dive shop that sits there on the beach also has an outdoor restaurant called “Surf and Turf” attached to it. It was simply a small kitchen with a deck coming off of it, steps leading to sand and about 8 or so tables and chairs set up along the water. They were just starting to set up as we packed up our gear and chatted with the incredibly nice dive master at the shop. He gave us some detailed advice such as: at Playa Lagun, swim out to the right and about 15 minutes into the dive and around 45 feet there are usually 3 ________ (blanking on the name) fish. Hopefully I’ll remember before we go out there, I presume they were some of the more rare fish. Anyway, after talking with him and another guy from Holland for a while, we grabbed a table along the shore and enjoyed the sunset. We ordered the Surf and Turf, fried plantains, fries, and a couple cold ones. Despite having to wait quite some time for our meal (they had lost our ticket), the setting and food were amazing.  We couldn’t have asked for a better ending to our first Curacao dive.

After dinner we drove back to Avila and had dessert at the outdoor “Bella Terrace” restaurant. Marcus had a warm apple tartlet with ice cream and I had a passion fruit mousse. His was delicious, but neither of us were too impressed with mine. We ended up going back to the room and having a couple of our Belgian treats to satisfy the sweet tooth. After dessert we made a couple coconut rum cocktails and went for a walk along the beach and resort. We found a little spot that sits up overlooking the ocean where we sat the rest of the night just talking, laughing, and finishing our drinks. It was beautiful spot and fun ending to our day.

Marky

Britt finding Zen

Trumpetfish

Sunset view from our dinner table

Curacao: Day 1

As I sit to write this my feet are kicked up on our balcony overlooking the calm turquoise  water, a cup of coffee on one side, Marcus on the other, and the sweet chirps of local birds singing fills the warm air. Is this Heaven?? Despite the cliché I truly do feel that this is my idea of what Heaven should be. When I die, I want to go to the Curacao in the sky.

We arrived around 2pm into the adorable little Hato airport. Nothing like our big boisterous, granite slab countertop in the bathroom SFO. Petite and colorful, the airport sits surrounded by cactus and adjacent to the ocean (the landing strip was no more than 30 yards from the ocean). As we landed we gawked at the unreal bright blue water and reefs clearly visible from the plane. Already we could tell this was unlike any place we have been before.  

We made our way through customs and immigration still in that “Oh my gosh I can’t believe we are really here!!” mode. There was a snag when we picked up our rental car as they tried to give us one with a broken radio/CD player. Marcus spent a good portion of time before we left making us Island CDs to listen to while we were here so we were really bummed. We eventually got a different car (a BLUE one at that!!) and headed to our Hotel.

Somehow, despite all odds against me and my natural lack of direction, I was able to navigate as Marcus drove to hotel with ease. The drive to the hotel was very interesting itself. The architechture here is simply beautiful to me. The colorful, ornate, and somewhat European Victorian little rundown houses that were scattered along the drive had my camera fluttering. We arrived to the hotel around 4 pm. We could not be happier with our choice to stay here, this place is simply stunning. Covered in local flora and fauna and built in the traditional “Dutch” style architecture, the Avila sits perched right on the beach. As we checked in we were presented with a glass of sweet carribbean fruit juice. Why thank you. We quickly unloaded the car and headed up to see our room. We were given an Ocean View room with a little patio equipped with table and lounge chairs… definitely going to be our breakfast spot most mornings.  Our room is in the newer building of the hotel and is very modern inside, nothing like the tropical exterior. I’m super stoked about the little kitchenette and look forward to cooking up some fresh catch of the day to eat on our balcony at least one night.

After settling in we walked down to the beach where we grabbed a spot under a nice big palapa. There is an adorable ship turned into a bar that is conveniently situated on the beach where we grabbed a couple drinks to take back to our beachside seats. We layed there most of the evening as the sun faded, getting up only a couple of times to take a dip. There were schools of fish in the water right in front of us, and boy were they friendly. Obviously used to visitors, the fish swam right up to us. One little guy seemed confused and kept circling Marcus and I like we were prey? I’m not sure, but he was cute and I even got to touch him.  

When the sun completely sank we rinsed off the sand, got a little fancier, and took a cab over to Mambo Beach for dinner. We had heard that this was the place to be on Sunday night for live music and dancing (the guy who helped us with our car rental called it “local night”). Well that was correct indeed. The place was swarmed with people and loud club music right on the beach. Everyone looked to be having fun but I am an old soul, and something just didn’t feel right. We decided to walk along the beach to Lions Dive Resort (two min walk), home of Hemmingways. Ahhh, much better. The dinner tables are set up on the sand under light strung palapas. We grabbed a seat and just relaxed for a bit as the live band set up. They were not offering their normal menu as it was their buffet night, so we delightfully indulged in some fresh local fanfare.  My favorite was the Bangamary, a white fish which I was told is similar to Grouper. Everything was good though, and given the setting and company I’m not sure I could complain even if the food had been terrible.  A few Mai-Tais, Margaritas, and some fruity little green things later we called it a night and took a cab back to our hotel.